Walk Andalucia – A Day in Málaga

This has been our last day with Walk Andalucia. We booked a late return flight from Málaga in order to gain another day in Spain, without really planning in advance how to spend it.  In the end, we decided to join our group leaving from Torrox to the airport early in the morning, and try to discover the city of Málaga.

Vicky and Paul dropped us in Málaga at the train station and came with us inside the station to show us where to drop the luggage. Three euros and you are free to roam for an entire day luggage free – what a wonderful invention.

We said our good byes to our wonderful guides Vicky and Paul, and minutes later here we are, walking towards the city centre.

 

 

 

It took us about 20 minutes to reach the  centre, brisk walk, as we were quite hungry by that time.

 

 

 

The majestic Málaga Cathedral, and us walking around it, to try to decide on a place to eat a bit of breakfast/ early lunch.

    

And finally stopped at a small cafe on San Agustin street. 

Vicky empowered us with  map of Malaga’s attractions, so decided to try a few museums.

The most obvious choice was the Picasso museum, however by the time we finished lunch,  the queue  was already miles long – so we needed a change of plan.

 

 

 

It’s Spain, so we started with the Flamenco Museum. Very nice little place and certainly not on the beaten track (although very central).

              

 

 

 

 

 

 

By the time we finished the tour, the rain started. Time to hide away so we stop for a coffee and a cake at the turkish cafe, on the same San Agustin street, behind the Cathedral. It’s here we  met two Scottish ladies, otherwise friends, that explained us, in turn and quite passionately, the advantage of the Yes and the No vote for Scottish independence.

Next we choose the African Arts Museum – minutes away fro the Cathedral.

    

This statue is thousands of years old and it’s one of the oldest artefacts in the museum.

I almost forgot, but in the way to the taxi, we have discovered the El Pimpi restaurant – too late for us to stop, but definitely bookmarked for next time, if there will ever be a next time in Málaga.

This is El Teatro Romano – our last stop for a couple of minutes.

The history bit

El Teatro Romano is the oldest monument in Málaga City; it is situated in the cultural heart of Málaga city, at the foot of the famous Alcazaba fortress. The theatre was built in the first century BC, under Emperor Augustus, and was used until the third century AD. Subsequently it was left to ruin for centuries, until the Moors settled in Andalucía. In 756-780AD the amphitheatre was used as a quarry by the Moorish settlers , to excavate the stone used to build the Alcazaba fortress – you can see some Roman columns and capitals in the fortress.

Next for us – taxi, train to airport and back home in England.

We had a  great time in Torrox, because the place is great, the food is very good, the walks uncovered magical places, but mostly because we have met and spent the week with a very special bunch of people.

Walk Andalucia – Torrox Costa, second trip

Today’s walk looked too challenging for us and being quite pleased with ourselves and our three walks so far, we decided to have a lazy day (ok, another one), and go to the seaside instead.

This is Jo waiting in front of our house in the morning.

 We used to pass this street on our right every day, in the way to the Plaza, on this ocassion we decided to explore it instead.

            

 It does end up in the Plaza, everything does if you keep the direction, and here it is our blue bus.

 Being our second trip to the Costa, we already  knew we want to go to the same restaurant, La Mar Chica,  (well, yes, boring) – but at least we tried different food.

The fish and the mussels are very good – I could not understand the tropical salad and its canned asparagus though. I am sure canned vegetables in vinegar have a place in the world – why in a tropical salad? But what do I know?

 Back on the beach and the water was yet again, very tempting.

Jo tried. I provided as much encouragement as I could – it didn’t work out. It was COLD. So this scene only lasted for about 10 seconds and we give up the idea of swimming in the sea. Goodbye seaside for the time being.

In our way to the bus stop.

This is a photo I wanted to take every day. This altar was on our way to the Plaza. The row of blue and orange pots – another clue we were on the right path.

The cat watching the world go by every day, in the same place.Ariving at Casa Mayar, – time to get ready for our last dinner with our group.

Walk Andalucia – El Acebuchal – the Lost Village

Stating Point: Road above El Acebuchal village

Level of Difficulty: Easy/Moderate

Length: 10 km (approx)

Date: 25.09.2014

Walk from :   Walk Andalucia holiday

Story of the Walk:

For our third walk of the week, Vicky and Paul, our guides and hosts, gave us a choice of an alternative B walk, very much in the same area, and led by their neighbours and friends, Janet and Bob. Slower walk, fantastic photo opportunities and more time to wonder in El Acebuchal –  we were nothing but grateful for the chance. Our decision had nothing to do with the fact that the B walk involved a lot less climbing, right?!

So, the walk started high above the El Acebuchal village, going round the village more or less on the flat, then doing the common descent in the village, for the late lunch, together with the rest of the group.

This is us, at the start of the walk, on a splendid late summer morning.

Jo, Janet and Bob at the start of the walk

The history bit, as I remember it told by Bob, and with a bit of help from the net:

‘Acebuchal is a small restored pueblo situated about 7kms from Frigiliana, nestling in the Sierras Tejeda and Almijara natural park. The name Acebuchal comes from ‘acebuche’, meaning olive bush. Until the mid 1990s all of the buildings were in complete disrepair.

The story surrounding the village and the reason for it being abandoned goes back to 1949. Although the Civil War ended in 1939, skirmishes were still taking place between the Guardia Civil and the rebels. There are different views as to why the village was abandoned.
Some say it was because there was a strong resistance movement there and the Gurdia Civil decided to force the residents out. Others say that it was a strategic place for the rebels from other areas and the Guardia wanted control. They imposed restrictions on the residents, who were only poor farmers, saying they could only occupy the village during daytime to tend to livestock and crops, but must live elsewhere in the surrounding area. Eventually the residents decided to move out completely, having had enough of the inconvenience. Hence the name pueblo el fantasmas (the village of ghosts) as it is
known by locals.’

In the past, the village was a staging post on the ancient mule traiding routes between Frigiliana and Competa and between Nerja and Granada. Muleteers from the coastal villages would run through the night as they carried fresh fish landed on the coast one day, for sale the following morning in Granada.

One of these trading route coming down from our right:

 View with pine treeSuddenly we spotted our group on the mountain the other side of the valley – a string of small white beads slowly moving uphill. We have eventually managed to established communication with them by means of shouting our lungs out.

The views were incredibly – the clouds shadows slowly moving parallel with us on the mountains ahead and the valleys below.

We almost walked past, when Bob pointed us in the direction of this interesting thing in a pine tree – it is the nest of the Pine Processing Moth Caterpillar. The moths are harmless, however when in the larvae stage ( caterpillars),  they can be very dangerous due to their thousands of hairs which contain an irritating protein. These hairs can be blown by the wind into contact with people and animals, resulting in painful skin irritations, rashes or allergic reactions. So, do NOT touch the nest or the creatures, poke it or mess with them in any way.

Nest of the Pine Processing Moth Caterpillar

This is the point where we left our high up circular path, and start the descend towards El Acebuchal pueblo.  In our way down, we past a couple of abandoned lime (cal) kilns.  It’s where the local rock, limestone, is baked to drive out the carbon dioxide and produce quicklime. This substance is stored dry but then hydrated (slaked) as needed for use as a mortar to bind stones for buildings, as a cheap whitewash for the ‘pueblos blancos’, or on the fields as a lime fertiliser.

The descent can be tricky in places, through a dried up river bed, but nothing really difficult. 

Acebuchal Village

Acebuchal Village

Finally, three hours later, we have arrived in the village, minutes before our group, so a good chance to take some photos.

Jo in the local shop. We bought a fig salami – which I didn’t get a chance to taste, I’ll have to find out how it was…

Meeting everybody for a late lunch at El Acebuchal, very rustic Spanish bar. Superb country Spanish food – most probably the best food we had in Spain all week.

 When we finished the meal, Paul drove us all back in Torrox.   On arrival at home, we decided to refresh quickly, then  go to the coast to watch the sunset – now that we had learnt the buses and our way around.

Jo walking into the sunset

Back in Torrox Pueblo by taxi (the taxi station is right behind the bus station in Torrox Costa) and the fare is a very reasonable eight euros.

While walking through the Plaza, thinking where to stop to get something light to eat, we have suddenly discovered our group,  so joined them for the rest of the evening at one of the Plaza’s local small restaurants.

We had a great time in Torrox, but for me this day and place has been the highlight of the holiday – special thanks to Janet and Bob for being our wonderful guides !

Walk Andalucia – Nerja Caves

Stating Point: Torrox Costa

Date: 24.09.2014

Walk from :   Walking Andalucia holiday

Story of the Day:

Rest day for our group at Walk Andalucia. Some people went to Malaga, but we had last day planned for visiting Malaga so we picked Nerja instead, from the suggestions on our itinerary papers. Luckily enough, the first bus to Nerja displayed ‘Nerja Caves’ as the final destination, so quick decision in the bus to actually carry on our journey to the caves. I was worried we would not know how to get back from the caves to Nerja, but there are plenty of buses back during the day. It’s a big place, visitor place, restaurant and all that.

 The paintings gallery was not open to the public, so we only saw the reproductions outside.

History

The caves are the formation of karstic cavities, their origin dating back millions of years. During the Triassic period, large quantities of calcareous mud settled on the bottom of the ancient Mediterranean sea, later transforming into the calcareous-dolomite marble which at present surround the caves.

During the Upper Miocene period, about 5 million years ago, drifts between the tectonic layers of Africa and Europe resulted in the creation of the Beticas mountains, including the Sierra Tejeda and Almijara. The abundant rain of the last 5 million years (Upper Miocene and Lower Pleistocene) infiltrated the fissures of marbles, stimulating its further dissolution.

Huge cavities, in which the underground waters circulated, were thus formed. Later, due to mountain slides in the region, the subterranean waters were forced into the lower layers and, as a consequence, the caves started to refill with carbonate deposits, stalactites and stalagmites.

In the last 800,000 years (Middle Pleistocene and Holocene) the impressive stalactites and stalagmites have formed following further settling of calcite.

Early Inhabitants

Skeletal remains found in the Nerja Caves indicate that they were inhabited from about 25,000 BC up until the Bronze Age, first being used as a seasonal dwelling place and then later becoming a year round residence for the human population in the area.

Cave paintings, found on the walls, date back to the Paleolithic and Post-Paleolithic periods and show a culture based upon hunting.

By 4,500 BC, the domestication of animals was part of the local culture and the caves were being used for farming purposes and pottery production.

By 3,800 BC, advanced styles of pottery and textiles were being produced in the area and parts of the caves began to be used as a burial chamber.

And down we went. Nothing prepares you for this amazing experience.

A few photos from the caves – very difficult to photograph in very low light and no support for the camera.

The concert chamber – they host live music in this absolutely huge place.

 Fantastic formations in each corner – a totally overwhelming experience.

After two hours underground, we resurfaced in the strong sun – still mesmerized by the experience.

Back to Nerja, and went straight to the beach, secretly hoping the water is going to be warmer. It wasn’t, so we decided to enjoy the sun and the beach instead, and watch the sea from a distance.

 An hour later and we were on our way to find a place to eat.

Balcon d’Europe Streets in Nerja.   Jo bought a small round medallion – which apparently is for calling the angels. The guy in the shop knew all about marketing. Back in Torrox by bus, and we are meeting the group again at eight for dinner in the Plaza.

Walk Andalucia – Torrox Costa, first trip

Third day with Walk-Andalucia, and we decided to explore Torox Costa and do a walk on the beach while the group went on a coastal walk.

We  felt adventurous in our way down to the Plaza, and instead of  praying  to get the route right, tried a different route on purpose.

Nice discoveries – displays of flowers in the morning sun at every corner.

 

 And one unloved balcony at the back…

So, once down, to get to the bus stop aim towards the far left of the Plaza (brown church on your right)

then follow the road around – the sea now in view. and the bus stop is right in front of the ceramic shop (on the same side). The blue bus will go up the road on the other side, turn at the top and return in about 5 minutes). We had a good couple of minutes still to wait for the bus – and the cake shop right there in front of us – decisions, decisions… So, obviously we had to try the apple cake (by eliminating the most caloric ones) – it proved to be a good choice, it was delicious. Plus that being on a walking holiday counts – surely we’ll burn it off!

The bus journey to Torrox Costa took about a quarter of an hour, and here we are walking on the beach. The water was a lot colder then expected – not many people brave enough to go for a swim. Ok, we’ll collect nice stones instead !

 Soon stopping for lunch at ‘La mar chica’ – I had a salad with avocado and anchovies and Jo ordered a fish, but I’m not sure she quite expected one as big as that. We did enjoy our lunch though (and the sangrias) – so, a place to remember.

 Lunch done, and we resumed our walk in pursuit of a nice place to stop and relax in the sun. We spent some time preparing this photo for my photo contest ‘Last days of summer’ , a pity that I forgot to send it in…surely would have had good chances to be a winner.

Hope not many people ended up sad passing the scene.

Finally found some sun beds, an umbrella, so from here onwards it was only about watching the world go by. And birds following the fishing ships. For three hours.  Back in Torrox late afternoon and relaxing on the terrace before descending down in town for dinner with our group.

View from Casa Mayar in the evening sun

Walk Andalucia – Frigiliana and Cruz Pinto

Stating Point: Frigiliana

Level of Difficulty: Moderate

Length: 10 km

Date: 22.09.2011

Walk from :   Walk Andalucia holiday

Our second day of walking in Andalucia started from the picturesque village of Frigiliana. Snacks, sandwiches and walking poles dispatched – and we were ready to start.

From the village we dropped down into the spectacular gorge of the Río Higuerón.

 Our first unexpected encounter with the wild goats (cabra de monte) – almost impossible to spot on the mountain.

Next an eagle gave us a close fly-past, perfect timing,  but gone in a split second.

The river dried out and very soon we spotted our path, sharp right and the ascend began.

And it was all up and up and up on steep ridges. From time to time a scent of wild thyme and rosemary mingled with pine filled the air.

Snack break at the top, and I remember being extremely grateful for a bit of shadow.

Paul – our guide trying to get us to start moving again.

That is where we’re going next!

Next bit of the walk was on the flat (well, more or less) and the views are spectacular all around. us.

Downhill towards our lunch stop spot ,and we soon got the first glimpse of the village. Ian and Jo in the distance.

Lunch break – relaxing in the shadow while waiting for the brave group doing the short climb to the monument to return.

Lunch break – enjoying our sandwiches and the great salads prepared by Vicky and transported for us up the mountain.

Oops – boots malfunction – this is where Chris had her boot taped.

Back in the village, after battling the last short steep ascent. And thanks to Paul for offering to carry our rucksacks uphill.

We stop for a drink at a local restaurant, then had an hour to explore the streets of Frigiliana.

Frigiliana

Frigiliana streets

Frigiliana streets

Ceramic shop in Frigiliana and yes, I bought a small vase – it’s now watching the rain on my window sill in Yorkshire.

Arriving back in Torrox at Casa Mayar – our home for the week.Next, as per our usual programme – meeting everybody at eight for dinner and drinks in the Plaza.

Walk Andalucia – Torrox Discovery Walk

Stating Point: Torrox Pueblo Plaza

Level of Difficulty: Moderate

Length: 10 km

Date: 21.09.2011

Walk from :   Walk Andalucia holiday

Here we are in Torrox, a little white-washed village, way down in Southern Spain, for a short, one week holiday, with Walk Andalucia. We have arrived the day before, Vicky and Paul, our hosts picked us from Malaga Airport and brought us to our accommodation: a beautifully restored Moorish house, with great views of the mountains and over the village.

The day started peacefully on the terrace, with a coffee and a bit of breakfast, while waiting for the first rays of orange sunlight to emerge from behind the mountains tops.

View over Torrox from our kitchen

This is the first walk of the week, and the first challenge was to find our way from Casa Mayar to the Plaza, in a labyrinth of narrow winding streets.

Mission accomplished a few minutes later, and successfully joining the rest of the walking group in the Plaza. Ten people in total, from England, Australia and Spain – quite international.

We started by walking out and up through the oldest part of the village – El Porton, and Paul is throwing a bit of history in the mix. There are wall-tiles spread all over the village (16 in total) with historical information regarding Torrox. – it’s  the Route of Almanzor,  which I’m sure is in itself an interesting walk.

Torrox El Porton

The history bit:

‘Torrox was settled in the time of the Phoenicians and Greeks trading in olives, figs and wines in Spain. It rose in importance with the Romans as Caviclum, producing Garum a sort of anchovy fish paste. You can see ruins of Garum factories in the nearby town of Almunecar. After the Romans, the Visigoths occupied the area until the arrival of the Moors in the 7th century. They called the town Torrus or Turrux, meaning Town defended by towers.

The Moorish occupation had a huge influence on Torrox, introducing a new way of agriculture, terracing of the land and irrigation still in existence today. The Moors produced silk materials supported by the silk worm from the mulberry tree, artisan products, sugar cane, figs, almonds , vines much of which is important to the area to this day.

As with the rest of the area, war visited Torrox with the conquering of Spain by the Christians and the defeat of the Moors. Torrox suffered in the Moorish uprising and in 1487 was awarded the title of “Very Noble and Loyal Village”During the 17th and 18th centuries, Torrox recovered its importance and various palaces were constructed as well as the Customs and Treasury for business overseas. The castle of Torrox was destroyed in the Napoleonic wars.

In the Christmas of 1884 an earthquake befell Axarquia and this brought a visit from the King at that time Alfonso X11. In this time the sugar cane started to be widely produced and factories called “ingenios” were constructed for production of sugar as well as molasses, honey and liquors.The cultivation of sugar cane began to decline in the second half of the 20th century and other sub tropical products such as avocados and mangoes came to prominence in the agricultural industry.’

Leaving Torrox behind, We kept walking up the hill and very soon got great views of the coast and the village.

Leaving the pueblo behind

Above the goats shack

The higher we walked the better the views and very soon we got to see Sierra de Almijara – the mountain range which encloses the Torrox Valley.

Mango tree ready for Christmas

Above Torrox

Almond tree

Vineyard

As we passed a house yard, Vicky negotiated for us to be invited to see how a couple of local men make the wine – soon the session inevitably included the all important wine tasting element. The white grapes have a fantastic flavour – I think they are called muscat ottonel.

Local economy in full swing

Short snack break.  Remember the almond tree? This is how you smash the almonds.

Paul and the almond

Alternative methods on trial.

Jonathan and the almond

As far as I remember – the unanimous decision is that nobody will give up the day job. The almonds (or what’s left of them) were great though.

This is when Vicki and Paul invited us all to have lunch at theirs.

Almost half way there

These are the acequias – old Moorish irrigation channels that used to bring the water from the mountains to the fields below. The word acequia is of Arabic origin, meaning “bearer of water” or “that which quenches thirst”.

Acequias

Arriving at Vicky and Paul’s house. Never had a pool offered more temptation. Great lunch break.

Vicky and Paul’s house

Descending into Torrox with Janet and Bob.

Back home and walking to the Plaza for our group dinner at El Rubio.

Calla Belen

Torrox streets

Torrox streets

Very special sky tonight. Who needs HDR ?

Torrox Plaza after rain

Excellent food and wine – and we are informed to forget about loosing weight – it’s not going to happen.